David and Jo's Adventures: Madrid

Mon 24th March 2014

Up fairly early today to go to Madrid. Overcast and chilly so the thermal underwear is on again!!! Brisk 40 mins walk to the station and for E16 return for both of us on the train we set off on a 45min train ride into the city. Typical approach as to most cities, through some fairly new suburbs, but consisting of high rise flats close together and the graffiti was terrible. Went through the station that was bombed 10 years ago last week and got off at Sol station, the trains and station were all well-kept. We were going to do a free guided tour of the city but had missed the morning one so had to wait till 2 o’clock for the next so went to the Plaza Mayor to find the tourist office for info. Had an expensive coffee in the square while we got our bearings. Eduard had told us we had to go to the oldest restaurant in the world, Botin 1725 (it’s in the Guinness book of world records) so found that around the corner. We were going to have a “menu” lunch before our tour but not here!!!! E45 each, but as it doesn’t open till 1 for lunch they actually allow people in to look around pretty much the whole place and down to the wine cellar and into the kitchens to see all the suckling pigs lined up. One of the most expensive things on the menu were baby eels at over E100 a time!! What a wonderful place, wish we weren’t on a budget, and how great that they allow the public in like that. We found our “ menu” (this is traditional in Spain where you get starters, mains and a glass of wine or a beer plus either a dessert or coffee all for a set price.) at Gran Café De Madrid which at E10 each was more in our price range and was very good. Headed back to the square to pick up our free tour (these are in many cities and although free and you’re not obliged to pay anything if you enjoy it you can tip the guide) The girl doing the tour was very good and there were about 20 or so on it. She gave us a good basic history of Madrid and Spain and pointed out some interesting buildings and features. The square we had been in was where the Spanish Inquisition tortured and executed prisoners, a favourite being the Garrotte where the strangulation could be instant or could take days when the small neck bones would break each day and the anticipation of death would send them mad. The Moors (Muslims) that ruled a lot of Spain as far up as Madrid for centuries were big on education and had in their libraries over 600000 books whereas at the time the Christians had about 400. The Muslims were also very tolerant of other religions, but when the Christians conquered the Moors and kicked them out things changed. The Inquisition drove out or murdered all the Jews and Muslims if they did not convert to Catholicism. One way they could find out if these were in Spain unconverted was to insist on selling pork at every venue to then spy on those not eating it because of their religion, thise is why in Spain there are so many Ham shops everywhere and they are experts at curing it. She showed us the Royal Palace which is similar to Versailles (same architect) and as we were there the Horse Guard were practising, shame the over cast skies spoil the pictures. Our guide gave us a brief history of modern Spain as well, that was interesting, I didn’t realise Franco was still in power until 1974 (he was the last person to garrotte an anarchist in the square much to the horror of the rest of the world) he has divided parts of Spain according to some people, (there is still 30000 missing people unaccounted for) but they don’t teach that part of history in schools and people don’t like talking about that period. As a coincident while we were here today there was a huge Lay in State for an ex- President who had died recently and who had taken over from Franco and helped to bring democracy to Spain. People were lined up in their thousands to pay their respects and walk past his coffin (thanks Jane for explaining who he was to me). After the 3 hour tour we gave the girl E20 and headed to San Gines Chocolateria which is famous for churros, with photos of old and new famous celebrities all over the walls. Decided to walk then to the Prado Museum to get some culture, queued up with all the other cheapskates who had waited till the last two hours to get in for free!! Full of paintings by famous old masters but sorry Roger it didn’t do a lot for us and we left after a quick tour glad that we hadn’t paid E14 each to get in, (one thing I forgot to mention about the Botin restaurant was that the famous artist Goya washed pots there when he was rejected for the Royal Academy of Art, before getting recognized and painting most of the Royal potraits).Walked back through the city which was now dark but full of life and watched a few street performers, fashion show with some stars that we didn’t know but got the young crowd excited and tried to understand a biggish protest about the 22 million unemployed (being unemployed we know what that’s like!!!) and Government corruption, before heading back to Aranjuez on the train and another hike back to Priscilla. Even though we enjoyed what we saw of Madrid and I’m sure there is plenty more to see (they do have heaps of art museums if you’re into that) and we found the tour interesting we’ve decided not to go back. Is everyone still awake after this novel?????