Tuesday 27 August 2019

Welsh Coast Path-Clarach Bay to St Dogmaels


It’s good to be back in Wales and it was a good drive considering it was a Bank Holiday long weekend. 

We were going to start our walk on the Ceredigion Coast Path at Borth but couldn’t find anyway free to leave the car, so we landed up leaving it here in Clarach Bay. We packed our rucksacks and headed up and over Constitutional Hill and into Aberystwyth.



Arrived in Aberystwyth hungry so had cod and chips on the sea front. 

Aberystwyth is a nice University town which keeps it busy all year around. 

Remains of the 12th century castle.



We walked out of  the town and found a great spot to put the tent up at the base of Allt-Wen Hill. David is looking sad as he uses Jess’s spork! 

Morning view after a great sleep.

That will be the first climb of the day. A nice little heart starter. 

View from the top and David is getting so much like his Dad - Johnny Have-a-Chat!

This was a scary moment when we encountered loads of cows on a very narrow path. They ended up in front and behind us! They were crowding around the gate we were trying to get through. So it took a bit of patience and persuading to get behind them and through the gate! Think they were as scared as we were! 

Picnic spot.

The path ahead.

All the blackberries have now ripened so plenty of bush tucker. 







It was nice to set up the tent at the end of the day and get our feet wet. If it wasn’t so rocky we would’ve had a swim.



Morning view after another good and very quiet sleep at Llansantffraid. 

Thought there was a coffee shop here in Llanon but it had closed down. 

Great weather today again-a bit too hot to be walking in it all day actually.

In the beautiful village of Aberaeron. 

The Monarchty in Aberaeron for a welcome pub lunch and a few beers. 





The tide had just come to n so we watched all the boats coming and going. 

Set off heading towards New Quay. 



New Quay. This ended up being a very long tiring day.  12miles and in the heat. We had wanted to find a campsite before New Quay as rain was forecast for tonight, but most were static van sites and wouldn’t take tents. So we decided we would have to get a b&b in New Quay but would you believe nothing was available. By now it was getting late and the only option was to get the bus back all the way to the car. Oh no! The last bus had gone! Now we are really getting worried knowing it was going to be wet all night, we can understand how homeless people feel in this predicament every night. We decided now the only option was to get a taxi back to the car ( and sleep in it) which would have cost the same as a b&b if we could’ve found one! Phone signal kept dropping in and out which didn’t help the situation. We finally got through to Pete’s Taxis and told the lovely lady Kath our predicament and straight away she said leave it with me we have lots of friends and I will call you back. It was very dark and late by now. True to her word next minute she called back to say her husband Pete would pick us up and take us to a campsite belonging to a friend of theirs. What a life saver and we can’t believe how lovely people have been to us. The owner of the campsite (another Peter) came out - told us where to put the tent up and where the hot showers were and that he would see us in the morning. How lucky are we!

The next morning Peter from T’yr Ffyman campsite and Farm invited us in to his farmhouse and made us coffee and breakfast. What an interesting guy! We sat and chatted with him for a couple of hours. So much in common with David - interests in Freemasonry, Knights Templar’s, past lives, his time in the police force, people with great knowledge that he has met. David now has a list of books to read. 

We decided to stay another night so we left the tent up and Peter kindly gave us a lift into New Quay to the bus stop so we could retrieve our car. 



After 2 buses back to the car, which really makes us realise just how far we had walked, we drove to a Morrison’s supermarket and stocked up on walking food. Peter has kindly offered for us to leave the car at his place while we walk on. 

We stopped at The Penrhiwllan Inn just down the road from our tent for a curry, vegetarian lasagna and of course a few beers.

The following morning we had another tea and breakfast and another good chat. It came up that he has, in the past, converted many campervans and is in the process of converting one now. Is this fate? As we were thinking of buying one next year when we come back! So Peter showed us what he is thinking of doing with this one-shower/toilet/fixed bed etc so we said that we would be very interested. So watch this space. We really think we were meant to met Peter 😁

We didn’t end up leaving Peter’s place until lunch and set off towards Aberporth. 

Suns coming out again so off with the legs.










We came across this dry ski slope at The Urdd Centre which specialises in Welsh culture. David reckons even he could ski down this one! But I’m not so sure 🤣





The village of Llangrannog.



The statue of St Caranog the 6th century missionary. Again we had walked a fair way today and we now keen to find a wild camp spot as it will be dark in an hour. 

Found this perfect spot just before Penbryn. Had our picnic dinner before a good nights sleep.



We walked through Penbryn and into Tresaith for a coffee stop.

We then walked into Aberporth which was very pretty and had gammon & eggs and lamb cawl with bread and cheese at The Ship Inn. 

Walked around a Department of Defence area - not sure what this means but it made us walk quicker! 



The stunning beach of Mwnt.



We arrived in Mwnt and found a campsite for a hot shower. David thought he hadn’t walked far enough today so after putting the tent up he walked up here and took a picture of me in the tent reading. 

It rained all night so we stayed in the tent until 10am. It has started to get chilly in the mornings now so I think the thermals will be coming out soon. 

The little kiosk at Mwnt where we had bacon naps and coffee before setting off. We both commented on how in 50 years since we were kids things really haven’t changed much at the beach. Balls,fishing nets,buckets and spades still give kids hours of fun on the sand.



We are now at The Gwbert Hotel and enjoying a couple of beers. In the sun with a fantastic view.

Walking up the estuary towards Cardigan.

More bush tucker!

Picnic spot.

We walked into Cardigan and stocked up at the shop then arrived in St Dogmaels and had a gorgeous meal at The Ferry Inn. Wild Mushroom risotto and Welsh beef burger. We headed for a campsite or wild camp spot for the night and look where we landed up!

As we walked past The Webley Hotel the landlady was sweeping out the front and I said You don’t have anywhere we could put up our tent do you? And Sandra replied of course-you can put it up around the back-actually I can do better than that! Let me get the key and you can go in the caravan! 

How lucky we were again to come across lovely people. We had a beer and chatted to Sandra and husband Simon then had a great nights sleep-in a bed!

We had breakfast in the hotel and gave them a bit extra towards the accommodation (even though they didn’t want it!). That’s the end of The Ceredigion Coast Path so now to start The Pembrokeshire Coast Path.